Yeah, there’s a lot of meat going on in this dish. But it’s good. This was a meal that came together based on what I was craving – crispy bacon, luscious egg yolk and a carb – and what needed to be used up – a bag of fresh peas, the pork chops I had defrosted, and the celery nubbins hanging out in the crisper.
Pork & Bacon Quinoa with Peas and an Egg
1/2 cup red quinoa (regular would work just fine)
1 cup turkey stock
1-2 stalks celery (I used the inner core + a few leaves)
1 shallot
2 cloves garlic
1 tsp. coconut oil
10 ounces fresh English peas (you can certainly use frozen if that is what you have on hand)
2 ounces bacon (1 thick cut strip)
6 oz. pork chops (2 small boneless)
2 eggs
2 tbsp. parsley
Rinse your quinoa and add to a small saucepan with the turkey stock. Bring to a boil, pop a lid on, and drop the heat to a simmer. Simmer 15-20 minutes, or until the curlicues open and most of the liquid is absorbed.
Dice the celery and shallots; slice the garlic thin. Add to a large sautee pan with the coconut oil and sautee over medium heat until just beginning to brown. Add the peas and sautee, stirring frequently to avoid burning, until peas begin to soften. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Slice the bacon into batons and chop the pork chops into bite-sized pieces.
To the pan (still over medium), add the bacon and fry until the fat begins to render and the bacon is about half-done. Add the pork to the pan and continue cooking until the pork is browned and the bacon is crisped. Remove and set aside, keeping the fat for the eggs.
Return the pan back to the heat and add the eggs. Fry until desired yolk runnyness is reached.
This is one of those meals that just tumbled together from different bits and bobs + my sometimes-mantra ‘put an egg on it’. I took a souped-up version of the paleo hash browns from one source, added some leftover spicy/nutty sauce, slapped on an egg (or two), and called it dinner. This meal hits the notes for protein, vegetables, freshness, gooeyness, and heat. It’s a winner.
Spaghetti Squash & Bacon Hash Browns with Eggs and Pepita Chile Sauce
1 spaghetti squash
1 yellow onion
2 Tbsp. rosemary
4 slices thick cut bacon
2 tsp. garlic powder
2 tsp. chili powder
Salt & pepper to taste
For the pepita chile sauce
5 dried mixed chiles (I used 2 black chiles, and 1 long chile of indeterminate origin – the recipe called for guajillo)
3 dried ancho chiles
1 1/2 c. boiling water
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/2 c. pepitas
2 limes
1/4 c. cilantro
Big pinch red pepper flakes
3 cloves garlic
Big pinch salt
Big pinch pepper
Fat of choice for frying and eggs
2 eggs per person
Preheat the oven to 450. While your oven is heating, split the squash in half longwise and scoop out the seeds. Rub with olive oil, sprinkle with salt & pepper, and place cut sides down on a cookie sheet.
Dice the onion and chop the rosemary.
When the oven is hot, put your squash in and roast 20 mins. Flip the squash over and cook an additional 15 minutes. You will know the squash is done when you can run a fork across the flesh and it shreds into threads. Set aside to cool.
While the squash is working, dice and fry the bacon over medium heat, setting aside on paper towels to drain when browned. Drain all but a Tablespoon of fat and sautée the onions until softened and just beginning to turn golden. Add the rosemary and salt & pepper. Remove to a large bowl, and add the bacon.
Now make the sauce. Bring the water to a boil. While you’re waiting, de-stem and seed the chiles and place in a large bowl. Pour the boiling water over top, cover with plastic wrap, and let sit 15 minutes.
While that is going, toast the pepitas a in a dry pan until just beginning to brown. Add to the bowl of a food processor or blender. Chop the garlic and cilantro and add to the pepitas. Add the olive oil, the juice of both limes, and the red pepper flakes. Whiz until a paste is formed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
When the chiles are done, pick out of the water and add to the paste. Whiz until combined. Add 1/2 c. of the chile liquid and whiz to combine. Add the salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. If your sauce is too thick, thin with a bit more chile water – you’re looking for a hearty sauce; more like a loose-ish paste than a spready sauce.
Back to the hash browns.
Your squash should now be cool enough to handle. When it is, shred with a fork into the bowl containing the onions & bacon. Mix everything together, salt and pepper if needed, and add the garlic and chili powder.
Form the spaghetti squash mixture into small patties (you should be able to get about 9) and fry over medium-high heat in a few Tablespoons fat of choice until beginning to brown on each side.
As that is working, fry eggs to your desired doneness in your favorite egg frying fat.
Serve hash brown patties topped with a smear of sauce and eggs, 3 per person + 2 eggs.
Serves 2 for dinner + 1 for lunch, with plenty of leftover sauce.
This is one of those super comforting good for what ails you meals for chilly nights when all you want to do is curl up with some runny egg yolks and huddle under the blankets. It won’t be winning any beauty pageants, but it is warm, filling, comforting, gluten-free & paleo-friendly.
Good For What Ails You Cabbage, Kale & Apple Hot Toss
1 head Savoy cabbage, cored and sliced
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and sliced
1/2 large yellow onion, sliced
1 bunch Lactino kale, washed and sliced into ribbons
1 Tbsp. carraway seeds
2 Tbsp. garlic powder
2 Tbsp. onion powder
1 Tbsp. white pepper
Salt to taste
2 eggs per person
Bacon
Coconut oil
In your largest skillet over medium heat, melt 1 Tbsp. coconut oil. Once the oil is melted and the pan is hot, add your cabbage, onion and kale. I happen to like my apples on the disintegratey side, so I added them at this point as well. If you like firmer apples, wait until 5 minutes or so before the end of cooking.
Sautee 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally to avoid burning, until browned and softened. I hit the mixture twice during cooking with the spices and some salt; you might want to add all of it in the beginning. Either method works, just taste as you go.
In a separate pan, crisp your bacon. Set aside and add the eggs to the hot fat. Fry till your heart’s content.
Serves 2 for dinner or 1 for dinner with 2 lunch portions left over.
This dish takes the great springtime combo of peas + bacon and adds an unexpected umami hit from miso. The miso isn’t pungent here, it’s more of a supporting character, so don’t worry about it tasting weird. The Europe-meets-Asia flavors mesh quite well.
Spring Peas and Bacon with Lentils and Miso
3/4 cup beluga (or French green) lentils
1 cup vegetable stock
1 cup water
2 cups fresh or frozen peas
2 ounces slab bacon, cut into batons
2 cloves garlic, sliced thin
1 tsp. butter
1 tsp. white miso
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the lentils, stock and water. Bring up to a boil, cover, knock the heat back and let simmer 20 – 25 mins. or until tender.
Meanwhile, crisp the bacon over medium heat, drain and reserve.
Put the pan back on the stove and add the garlic. Let the garlic go until it is just beginning to smell fragrant and add the peas. Cook until the garlic is golden brown & delicious and the peas are starting to color. Salt & pepper to taste.
When the lentils are cooked, toss in a medium bowl with the miso. Salt & pepper to taste.
Add the peas & garlic and bacon. Toss to combine & serve.
Serves 2 for a hearty dinner or 2 + 1 lunch for a light dinner.
Ramps aka wild leeks are in season in New York right now and are actually a food that is quite often foraged. Ramps herald the beginning of spring, often appearing just as the snows recede. Ramps have a tender spicy/oniony/leek-y taste and oniony smell. Yum. We also ran across some delicious looking pre-made pierogis at a local gourmet market and couldn’t resist. This makes a very quick throw-together dinner for a weeknight. If you don’t have preserved lemon or citrus salt, regular lemon zest and kosher salt will do in a pinch.
Bacon and Ramp Pierogis
8 potato & cheddar pierogis (thawed if they are frozen)
1 bunch ramps, slice thin
3 oz. home made bacon, cut into 1/4 inch chunks
1/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp. preserved lemon, diced
1 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped
1 pinch citrus salt
In a large pan over medium heat, sautee bacon until browned and crispy. Place onto paper towels to drain. Set aside.
Pop your pan back over the heat, crank the heat up to medium-high and add 1 Tbsp. of the oil. Add pierogis (non frozen). Sautee until browned on both sides. Set aside.
Add the rest of the oil to the pan and toss in the ramps. Sautee until ramps are tender and wilty.
Add the pierogis, butter, preserved lemon and bacon back to the pan. Toss.
Turn off the heat. Top with thyme and citrus salt.
Ok, so this doesn’t sound like the most exciting dish in the world. It’s pretty good, though, and a great way to use up a ton of greens at once if you, like me, are drowning in CSA greens. It’s also a good excuse to whip out not one, but two, meats in a single dish.
Really, me? Why do I insist on writing every damn thing on 1 teeny tiny scrap of paper?
Braised Turnips & Apples
1 bunch baby turnips (or regular turnips)
1 bunch turnip greens
1 bunch Ethiopian kale (or any other green, really)
2 Fuji or other semi-sweet apples
1 onion
2 hot Italian sausages
4 oz. bacon (I used home made bacon flavored with garlic, black pepper and bay)
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1/2 c. white wine
1 c. chicken stock
2 Tbsp. honey
2 tsp. hot paprika
1 tsp. salt
3 tsp. apple cider vinegar
Put the largest pan you have a lid for over medium heat. Add 1 Tbsp. olive oil. While you are waiting for the oil to come up to temperature, slice the onion into thin half rounds and the bacon into 3/4 inch chunks.
Add the onions and bacon to the heated pan. Let the onions soften while you attend to the greens. Wash all greens, remove any tough stems, and slice into ribbons. Add to the pan.
Add the white wine, wait a minute or so, and add the chicken stock. Bring up to a vigorous simmer, cover, and cook on a low simmer 20 minutes.
While your greens are braising, prepare your next additions. Chop the turnips into roughly 3/4 inch pieces. Slice the sausage into bite-sized pieces.
Add the turnips and sausage. Re-cover and cook an additional 10 mins.
While that is working, de-seed the apples and chop into 3/4 inch chunks.
Add the apples and cook an additional 10 minutes. Gather your seasonings.
Add the honey, paprika, salt and cider vinegar. Stir well to combine. Put the lid on and let the mixture cook 5 minutes more.
Serve with mashed potatoes for a hearty stick-to-your-ribs German style meal or with buttered bread for a lighter take.
This is it. The end of my ‘Charcutepalooza A Year of Meat’ challenges. The very last one. I must admit to being a bit sad about my timed meat adventure ending. I learned a lot this year. Not only about food, but about where it comes from, food traditions, and even a bit of science. I also learned a bit about myself, and how far I can comfortably go to prepare something (like sausage, bacon or duck confit) that I’d always taken for granted.
This year has opened my eyes not only to the breadth of preserved meats out there, but how much of it can very easily be made at home. These things are not out of my league, they’re dead simple.
All it takes is a little time, a few special tools, lots of pork and patience. Having a partner in crime like my Dearest Husband the master sausage maker doesn’t hurt, either.
As I reflect back on this past year, I can say with all confidence that it has been one of my proudest on the culinary front. Not only have I been busy salting, curing and smoking my own meats, but I have started the first fledgling forays into canning. Zombie apocalypse? Bah. I’m good. I have duck prosciutto and summer jam.
This month’s challenge was to be a charcuterie master class of sorts – we had to use 3-4 different charcuterie elements in a single celebratory dish to show off a bit. So what did I do? I decided to go back to my roots and share a dish I loved as a kid with my hubby.
Ok now Buckeyes, don’t get up in arms. I know this isn’t traditional Cincinnati Chili. I know. Settle down. Breathe. This chili is made in the same spirit and has damn near the same profile of that ‘mole of the midwest’ Buckeyes have come to know and love.
Mmmm… quasi sacrilicious
Cinci By Way Of Charcuterie Chili
As I was coming off of an epic charcuterie fail I decided to use this dish as an opportunity to serve the bits and bobs of charcute I’ve collected over the past year.
Original Cincinnati chili calls for 1 1/2 lbs. of ground beef. I went in a different direction.
I used some bacon from this challenge (ok, not from this challenge exactly since I’ve been making about a batch a month since the beginning of the year – this stuff goes quick!)
Some leftover breakfast sausage from this challenge (and yes the notes of ginger tasted just fine)
and the topper: the very last bit of the duck confit from this challenge.
2 onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. chili powder
2 Tbsp. paprika
1 1/2 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. allspice
1/2 tsp. coriander
1 1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. cayenne
2 cloves, crushed
1 lb. brisket, chopped into 1/2 inch cubes
4 oz. home made bacon, sliced into 1/4 inch batons
8 oz. breakfast sausage, broken up
4 oz. duck confit, shredded
1/3 can (~ 6 oz.) canned plain tomato sauce
1/2 can (~ 1 c.) canned plain diced tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1 square (~2 Tbsp.) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 (15 oz.) can kidney beans
Huge handful shredded extra sharp cheddar per person
Spaghetti
In a dutch oven or other large heavy bottomed pot over medium heat, brown the bacon, brisket and sausage in batches, removing each batch as it is browned. You’re aiming to develop flavors here. If your fond (the brown bits) on the bottom of the pot is getting too burnt, add a little water to loosen. Save it if you can, but if you can’t, pitch it.
After the meats are browned, add 1 tsp. olive oil to the pot along with the onions and garlic. Cook until beginning to soften, about 5 minutes.
Add the meat back to the pan along with the spices, beans, tomatoes, tomato paste, vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Add water until the mixture is covered by 2 or so inches. I made my chili in a 5 quart dutch oven and added water to the fill line.
Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer 2 hours until everything is very tender and delicious.
Let sit, uncovered, a few hours until ready to serve. You want to give the flavors a chance to mix, mingle and marry.
When you’re ready to serve, turn the heat on to medium while you cook the spaghetti (following package directions).
When your spaghetti goes into the pot, add the duck to the chili. Stir to combine.
Serve the chili over the spaghetti and top with a huge handful of cheese per serving.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1 c. pecan halves
1/4 c. maple syrup
1/4 c. whole grain Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. sugar
1/4 c. vegetable oil
1 1/2 lb. brussels sprouts, outer leaves removed and bottos trimmed
4 oz. home made bacon, sliced into 1/8 in. batons
Kosher salt
Pepper
Preheat oven to 325 F. Wrap a baking sheet with foil and lightly coat with nonstick spray. Add the pecans. In a small bowl whisk maple syrup, big pinch salt and a pinch of pepper. Pour over nuts, toss to coat. Spread over pan in a single layer. Bake 5 minutes. Stir. Bake an additional 6 minutes or until the nuts are toasted and the sugar is bubbling. Transfer the foil off of the pan & separate nuts. Set aside until cooled.
Meanwhile, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, lemon juice and sugar. Add the oil & whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Add the bacon batons to a large pan over medium heat. Cook until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp. Transfer bacon to paper towels to drain.
Using a food processor fitted with a shredding blade, shred the Brussels sprouts.
Add Brussels sprouts to pan with bacon fat and raise the heat to medium high. Cook, stirring frequently, until sprouts just begin to soften. Transfer to a large bowl.
Add bacon and toss with enough dressing to coat. Let stand 30 mins to an hour to let the favors marry. Top with pecans and serve.
This dish was intended to be a showstopper. Picture it: Miami, 2011. A group of 40 seasoned foodies gathered on a sweltering late July Saturday in a Midtown penthouse with sweeping views for a potluck promising gastronomic delights. A XX-something year-old me with my Darling Dedicated Husband sous, bustling around to make sure our dish turns out right.
I’m happy to say that my two weeks of freaking out trying to make sure our dish not only fit the ‘avant garde’ theme of the potluck, but was damn tasty, paid off. The dish was a smash success and avant garde enough to wow. Go, me. I even managed to make 40 servings that were just the right size — a little cup full — so no one was completely stuffed after eating it. More on the potluck.
This recipe is not a quick cook by a long shot and the broth makes a big batch. Freeze the leftovers in quart freezer bags to pull out and thaw as necessary. Although it takes a long time to cook, this broth is totally worth it. Definitely the best broth I have ever made by far.
So nice, I just had to take another shot of that scallop
Ramen with Kickass Broth, Fresh Bacon and Mousseline “Scallop”
Don’t be afraid of the long ingredient list. This dish, while not quick, is well worth the extra effort. Makes a great showstopper for company, and the extras can be dressed up in a million different ways.
1.5 lbs. scallops
1.5 lbs. crab (I used 8 ounces claw meat and 16 ounces lump meat)
3 large egg whites
1 1/4 c. heavy cream
5 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. white pepper
Juice of half a lemon
2 oz. Wakame seaweed
1 1/4 gallons water (16 cups)
1 1/2 ounces dried shiitake mushrooms, ground into as fine a powder as you can get them
5 pounds chicken wings and necks
1/2 pound chicken wings
1/2 cup sake
1/2 cup mirin
1 cup usukuchi (light) soy
1/3 pound double-smoked bacon
Ramen noodles
Enough house bacon to make a nice garnish, sliced into small batons and fried
Finely diced chives (optional, for garnish)
Finely diced red jalapeños (optional, for garnish)
1.5 lbs. scallops
1.5 lbs. crab (I used 8 ounces claw meat and 16 ounces lump meat)
3 large egg whites
1 1/4 c. heavy cream
5 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. white pepper
Juice of half a lemon
About half an hour before you want to start making your mousseline, put the bowl of a large food processor, the blades, and another large bowl in the freezer.
Preheat your oven to 300 degrees F.
In the food processor (out of the freezer), puree the scallops and egg whites until smooth. With the motor running, add the cream, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Blend to combine.
Dump the crab into your chilled bowl, picking through the meat to ensure there are no shells.
Fold your mixture into the crab and set in the fridge to chill while you prepare the terrine.
To make a quick & dirty terrine, take two small disposable aluminum meatloaf pans and line them with enough plastic wrap to completely cover the bottom and sides and fold over the top. Wetting the
pans slightly before placing the plastic wrap will help the plastic wrap stick in the corners.
Gently fill your terrines – this recipe makes enough to just about fill two of the meatloaf pans, or one large bread pan. Fold the ends of the plastic wrap up on the top and cover with tinfoil.
Place in a large roasting pan, and add hot water halfway up the sides of the terrines to make a water bath.
Bake until a thermometer inserted in the center reads 140 degrees F.
While your mousseline is baking, prepare the terrine “lids”. Cut cardboard (I used the container from a 12 pack of pop) so it fits as snugly as you can get it in the meatloaf pans. Make sure the edges of the “lid” aren’t getting hung up on the inner lip of the terrine. Cover with tinfoil and set aside.
When your mousseline has reached 140 degrees, pull from the oven and remove from the water bath. Cool and add your terrine “lids”. Weight both (I used 2 15-ounce cans of beans for each terrine) and chill in the refrigerator overnight.
To make the “scallops”, unmold each terrine and cut into 8 equal pieces widthwise. Use either a very small round cookie cutter or a film canister with the end snipped off (I’ll give you one guess as to which method I used) to carefully punch out your scallops. This quantity makes 40-something small scallops, with enough scraps leftover to completely fill a quart freezer bag.
Kickass Broth Adapted from David Chang’s Ramen Broth 2.0 from Lucky Peach Volume 1
2 oz. Wakame seaweed
1 1/4 gallons water (16 cups)
1 1/2 ounces dried shiitake mushrooms, ground into as fine a powder as you can get them
5 pounds chicken wings and necks
Kickass Broth Seasoning Adapted from David Chang’s Tare 2.0 from Lucky Peach Volume 1
1/2 pound chicken wings
1/2 cup sake
1/2 cup mirin
1 cup usukuchi (light) soy
1/3 pound double-smoked bacon Make The Broth
Heat the water in your largest stock pot to 150 degrees F. Add the seaweed, turn off the heat, and let steep 1 hour.
Fish out the seaweed and discard. Add the chicken and bring to a simmer. Simmer 15 minutes and scrape off any chicken scum that has risen to the top. Add the mushrooms and kick the heat down until the pot is very gently simmering. You’re looking for an occasional lazy bubble to rise to the top. Simmer gently for 5 hours, checking every once in awhile to make sure you’re neither too cold or too hot.
Strain and chill. For a more refined stock, strain, chill and remove the fat that solidifies on the top.
Make The Seasoning
Preheat your oven to 250 degrees F. Place the chicken wings in an oven-safe pot or steep-sided pan that is large enough to hold them without overlapping. Roast 5 minutes just to get the fat to start rendering out.
Crank the heat to 400 degrees. Cook, flipping occasionally, until the chicken is deeply mahogany–you’re not going for burnt, but the more color on the chicken = the better the resulting taste. This process took me around 40 minutes.
Remove the chicken and deglaze with the sake, scraping the browned bits of lovely goodness off the bottom of the pan. Set the pan over medium-high heat, and add the remaining ingredients (including the chicken).
After your mixture comes to a simmer, kick the heat back until you have the barest of simmers going. You’re not looking to reduce the liquid, just infuse it. Keep at a bare simmer for an hour and a half.
Strain and chill. Skim the fat that rises to the top.
If you’re feeling really froggy, you can save that fat to use as a topper for your ramen. Conversely, if you’re feeling really rushed for time, you can skip the skimming step and all will be well.
Finish The Broth
Season the broth with seasoning sauce until it tastes perfect to you. You may need additional salt or some heat, you may not. We added all of the seasoning sauce to the whole batch of broth and the taste came out perfect. And there you have it, a whole big pot of fabulous, rich, flavorful broth.
Cook The Noodles
Cook noodles according to package directions. Rinse in cold water to stop them from clumping and divide into your serving bowls.
Assemble The Dish
Add broth to your noodles until only a small island of noodle is left peeking out. Top the small island with a mousseline scallop, garnish with fresh bacon, chopped chives and jalapeños.
1 onion, halved & sliced thin
1 pint sweet mini peppers, sliced
1 head collards, washed, de-stemmed & sliced
1 tsp. Hungarian hot paprika
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground chipotle
1/4 c. Water
1 c. Good quality tomato sauce
Batons of cooked bacon
1/2 c. Yellow grits
2 c. Mixed water & milk
Splash balsamic vinegar
Sautée onions and peppers over medium until very soft and starting to caramelize. Add 1/2 of the tomato sauce, collards, spices & salt & pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally 2 mins or until well incorporated. Add water and cook, stirring occasionally and adding tomato sauce when the mixture looks too dry, 15 mins. Or until collards are softened and look done. Add remaining sauce and vinegar, taste for seasoning and adjust.
While the greens are cooking, make the grits. Over high heat, combine milk and grits with 1/2 tsp. Salt in a saucepan. Whisk continuously until the mixture comes to a boil. Cover and reduce eat to a simmer. Simmer 5 mins.
Gastography 