FODMAP Diet – Week 1

This was my first week on the FODMAP Diet. Last week it was the IFM Elimination Diet, but after 1 week and a chat with my functional fitness doc about my bloodwork and the strong reaction I had to cabbage (boo!), we decided to switch over to this diet to see if we can get things to calm down in my GI system.

The good news: Yay! Coffee! I can have a vodka soda!

The less good news: Garlic and/or onions are in literally everything I make and in most of my favorite foods. Italian and Mexican are going to be tricky. Also: it’s the start of mango season and mangos are high FODMAP. Guess I won’t be subsisting on mostly mango and chicken salad lunches like last year. Boo!

Proposed Meal Plan

Breakfasts

  • Overnight oats with peanut butter, blueberries & pepitas

Lunches/Dinners

  • Baked sweet potato with ground chicken marinara, olives and baby spinach
  • Ground chicken marinara with olives, baby spinach and zoodles
  • Salmon burgers with a carrot/cucumber/sesame salad
  • Salmon fillets with green beans, rice/quinoa mix and chive sauce
  • 1 weekday breakfast out, 2 weekend lunches out, 1 skipped weekend breakfast

Snacks

  • Rice cakes with tuna salad

Actual Meal Plan

Breakfasts

  • Overnight oats – remembered everything but pepitas
  • Overnight oats and I remembered the pepitas

Lunches/Dinners

  • Ended up eating out pretty much every day – or eating rice cakes with tuna salad, which turned out well. I ended up grabbing Marmite-flavored rice cakes because it sounded weird, and was pleasantly surprised. They make a great base for tuna salad. Not so much for peanut butter, but maybe that’s good – I don’t need to eat so much peanut butter anyways.
  • I only ate 1 of 2 salmon dinners – chucked the other (boo).
  • Only ate 1 serving of the chicken & sweet potato, and that was on Saturday.
  • Ended up eating out more than anticipated, which shouldn’t have been as big a surprise as it was. I know my life.
  • Also ate popcorn with nutritional yeast for dinner one night, because hubby was out and yolo single life.

Snacks

  • Single servings of the rice cakes, some leftover grapes, and an errant blueberry or two.
Monday: Lunch and dinner out – Niçoise salad and grilled chicken
Tuesday: Lunch out – Turkish kebab
Wednesday: Breakfast out – ate 1 bite of these joyless grains
Thursday: Big lunch out – vodka sodas, picked a bunch of scallions out of things, ate too many of those shrimp chips
Friday: Brunch out – lots of seafood, 1 vodka soda
Saturday: Lunch out – picked out all the peppers and onions, Skipped the salsa

What did I learn this week?

So. I thought I learned last week to not schedule every meal and to not make 99999 recipes requiring tons of ingredients.

My meals this week *were* simple, but I completely forgot about the standing lunch date I had planned for Thursday and the birthday party brunch I said I’d go to Friday. Oops.

So, I didn’t end up making everything and I still have some ingredients left over for next week, so it isn’t all a bust. A macros bust (somewhat), but not a FODMAP meals bust (quite).

I also learned that limiting myself to 1 vodka soda is hard with my wine group (I ended up having 3 spaced over 6 hours), but was easy in a big group setting where I could buddy up with the other non-drinker (I had 1). Overall, I’m pleased with that.

For next week, I’m not planning anything special – since we are heading off for vacation the next week, I’ll be making food from the pantry and eating up the rest of my batch-cooked food (that hasn’t spoiled). I will buy some more berries for breakfasts, and I’m kind of craving a Dole Whip for dessert – I bet I can make a compliant version. If it works, I’ll actually have a recipe to share next week. Fingers crossed.

Also in the realm of things I need to keep better in mind: storage. I only have a limited amount of Tupperware containers, and don’t want to buy more – planning a bunch of things to batch cook doesn’t work out super well, unless it’s enough for mains + sides, and I can chuck them in the 4 divided meal boxes I have.

I kinda want 4 small icy treat containers, though, that can double as individual overnight oats holders on weeks I don’t make anything.

Oops – Changing Directions, Again

Photo courtesy of Ella Olsson and Pexels.com

Changing directions again – this time to the FODMAP Diet instead of the IFM Elimination Diet.

First, let’s recap this first week on the IFM Elimination Diet.

Proposed Meal Plan

Breakfasts

  • Pumpkin Oatmeal Pancakes
  • Overnight oats made with water instead of almond milk

Lunches/Dinners

  • Quinoa salad with chicken, grapes & almonds
  • Baked chicken with cabbage
  • Coconut chicken with cilantro lime cauliflower rice
  • Walnut-crusted fish with cilantro lime cauliflower rice

Snacks

  • Fresh berries with coconut mango cream
  • Roasted beet hummus with savory seed crackers

Actual Meal Plan

Breakfasts

  • Pineapple
  • Overnight oats made with water + pumpkin, tahini, almond & pepitas
  • Pumpkin pancakes didn’t happen because I vastly overestimated my desire to wake up Monday morning and make pancakes.

Lunches/Dinners

  • Quinoa salad with chicken, grapes & almonds – with added broccolini and green beans I had from last week instead of baby spinach because I couldn’t find baby spinach in my local grocery.
  • Only 1 of the 4 proposed servings of chicken cabbage bake because the cabbage killed my stomach on Monday for dinner
  • 1 serving of quinoa/rice pasta with chicken and tomato sauce for lunch one day because I had an epic fail and my quinoa somehow managed to take twice as long as it should have to cook. Monday was full of fail, guys. Lunch and then dinner. Whomp, whomp.
  • Rice bowl with chicken & basil.

Snacks

  • Fresh berries with coconut mango cream. You guys. This was awesome.
  • The beet hummus didn’t happen because the crackers were a no-go; couldn’t find xantham or guar gum where I am.

What did I learn this week?

I (re)learned that my body hates cabbage right now. It doesn’t always, but for now it does. This week was slightly difficult (no coffee), but overall not too bad. I ate my breakfasts before meeting up with friends for coffee dates, drank herbal tea while out, and ate a bunch of food at home. The cabbage was an epic fail, and my gut was suuuuuuuper cranky all week, but overall it wasn’t a huge hardship.

So, Why the change? After chatting with my doctor about this first weeks’ goings-on, we decided to switch tactics and go for the FODMAP Diet. According to the labs the doctor ran, there’s something else going on in my gut and we need to work on reducing anything that can ferment in my gut and continue causing inflammation. So, no cabbage – no cruciferous veggies – no beer.

FODMAP Diet

What’s the deal with the FODMAP diet, and how does it differ from what you were doing? This diet varies a bit – some things that were out before (beef, pork, caffeine, soy sauce, corn, eggs) are in, and some things that were in before (hummus), are out. I will also need to make modifications to this diet because I know cruciferous veggies are a trigger right now, and I still can’t do dairy.

Note: The guidelines below are super-simplified and the literature available about the FODMAP diet isn’t always 100% clear on what’s actually in vs out. A bigger list can be found here: https://www.ibsdiets.org/fodmap-diet/fodmap-food-list/

Foods to Avoid

Fructose

  • Apple
  • Mango
  • Nashi
  • Pear
  • Canned fruits in juice
  • Watermelon
  • Fructose
  • High fructose corn syrup
  • Large servings of fruit
  • Dried fruit
  • Fruit juice
  • Honey
  • Corn syrup

Lactose

  • Milks
  • Soft unripened cheeses

Fructans

  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Eggplant
  • Fennel
  • Garlic
  • Leek
  • Okra
  • All onions
  • Wheat and rye in large amounts
  • Custard apples
  • Persimmon
  • Watermelon
  • Chicory
  • Dandelion
  • Inulin

Galactans

  • Legumes
  • Lentils
  • Chickpeas & beans

Polyols

  • Apple
  • Apricot
  • Avocado
  • Blackberry
  • Cherry
  • Lychee
  • Nashi
  • Nectarine
  • Peach
  • Pear
  • Plum
  • Prune
  • Watermelon
  • Cauliflower
  • Green pepper
  • Mushroom
  • Sweet corn
  • Sorbitol
  • Mannitol
  • Isomalt
  • Maltitol
  • Xyliol

Foods to Enjoy

Fruits

  • Bananas
  • Blueberries
  • Boysenberry
  • Cantaloupe
  • Cranberry
  • Durian
  • Grape
  • Grapefruit
  • Honeydew
  • Kiwi
  • Lemon/lime
  • Mandarin/orange
  • Passionfruit
  • Pawpaw
  • Raspberry
  • Rhubarb
  • Rockmelon
  • Star anise
  • Strawberry
  • Tangelo

Vegetables

  • Alfalfa
  • Artichoke
  • Bamboo shoots
  • Bean shoots
  • Bok choy
  • Carrot
  • Celery
  • Choko
  • Choy Sum
  • Endive
  • Ginger
  • Green beans
  • Lettuces
  • Olives
  • Parsnip
  • Potato
  • Pumpkin
  • Red pepper
  • Silver beet
  • Spinach
  • Yellow squash
  • Swede
  • Sweet potato
  • Taro
  • Tomato
  • Turnip
  • Yam
  • Zucchini

Herbs

  • Basil
  • Chili
  • Coriander
  • Ginger
  • Lemongrass
  • Marjoram
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme

Grain Foods

  • Gluten-free breads and cereals
  • 100% spelt bread
  • Rice
  • Oats
  • Polenta
  • Arrowroot
  • Millet
  • Psyllium
  • Quinoa
  • Sorgum
  • Tapioca

Milk Products

  • Lactose-free milk
  • Oat milk (no additives)
  • Soy milk (no additives)
  • Rice milk
  • Hard cheeses
  • Brie
  • Camembert
  • Lactose-free yogurt
  • Gelato
  • Sorbet
  • Olive oil

Sweeteners

  • Sucrose
  • Glucose
  • Artificial sweeteners not ending in -ol
  • Golden syrup
  • Maple syrup
  • Molasses
  • Treacle

Week 1 Meals

Breakfasts

  • Overnight oats with peanut butter, blueberries and pumpkin seeds
  • 2 scheduled breakfasts out – have either something gluten-free with no onions, or a fruit plate

Lunches/Dinners

  • Salmon burgers with carrot/cucumber/sesame salad
  • Sweet potato with chicken meat sauce, olives and spinach
  • Baked salmon with rice/quinoa mix, green beans, chive sauce and lemon
  • Zoodles with chicken meat sauce, olives and spinach

Snacks

  • Fruit
  • Rice cakes with tuna salad

Beverages

  • Coffee – consider bringing my own milk, since the soy at the coffee shop probably isn’t good, the coconut milk at Starbucks has sweeteners, and almond and cashew milks are a no-go
  • Teas (some sources say weak teas only; I plan to just avoid fruit teas that contain apples or cherries

Emergency ‘I’m In A Social Situation And Don’t Want To Bounce To Go Eat At Home All Sad And Alone’ Food

  • Order the fruit plate for breakfast
  • Order a salad with no cheese; oil & vinegar dressing
  • Go for sushi and have rolls
  • Return to traveling with ‘purse nuts’
  • Consider returning to having ‘purse milk’
  • Grab some rice cakes at the grocery – if by some miracle they have squeezy peanut butter, grab that too
  • Consider traveling with a bigger bag 

Meal plan for the (first) week in hand, let’s see what happens with this diet. I should be on it for the next month – my next doctor visit is right after we get back from vacation in 4 weeks. Hopefully that’s enough time to at least get somewhere in the healing process.

Trying Something New (Again)

IFM Elimination Diet logo courtesy of the Thrive Carolinas website

Sorry guys, no recipe this week; I’ve been trying to wrap my head around this new month-long thing I’m going to be trying starting next week: an elimination diet. No, not Whole30, and not FODMAP – this is called the IFM Elimination Diet, and I’ll be undertaking this journey with the functional fitness doctor I just started seeing to see if we can get a handle on what exactly is going on with my gut, what foods I’m actually sensitive to – and what foods are causing reactions due to something else going on in my body.

This particular diet aims to give the body a chance to just chill out and not have to work so hard processing foods it’s not super happy processing – which in turn should cut down on things like digestive issues, headaches, sinus issues, low energy, depression, mood swings, eczema, skin irritations, joint aches, asthma, and possibly weight gain. Well. Since I’ve been plagued by most of that ish for quite awhile, let’s go into this new thing with an open mind and see what happens.

Of course, I’ll be taking y’all along for the ride and giving you updates as I go along – just in case this info could help some of you some day (hello, my Nerds!). This month will also include a week-long vacation, so let’s see what happens there – I may have to end up stretching this to two months in the process, since the national foods of where I’m going are things I can’t have on this protocol (and vacation yolo).

Foods to Eliminate

  • Corn
  • Dairy
  • Eggs
  • Gluten (barley, rye, splet, wheat)
  • White sugar
  • Shellfish
  • Soy
  • Beef
  • Pork
  • Processed meats
  • Caffeine (coffee, tea, soft drinks (even diet), and chocolate)
  • Alcohol
  • Peanut butter

Foods to Enjoy

  • Fruits
    • Especially red & blue
  • Vegetables
    • Ideally, 10-12 servings a day – colorful, but especially green, red & blue
  • Nuts & seeds
    • 1-2 servings daily
  • Legumes
    • At least 1 serving daily; hummus is ok
  • Non-gluten whole grains
  • Healthy oils
    • minimally refined, cold-pressed when possible
    • coconut milk
  • Lean meats
    • Ideally, in every meal

Some things that may cause issue, and I’ll be mentioning to my doctor at our next visit: Legumes. I know (or at least I think I know) that lentils and beans hurt my stomach – this is one of the first things I discovered issue with waaaaaay back when I did my first elimination-style diet years ago. Do I need to reintroduce them? This protocol seems to love legumes even if they’ve caused an issue in the past – and gives ways to deal with gas and bloating. Does that include stabby-stabby pain? Hummus seems to be ok – so what gives there? Green peas are also fine with my body.

Histamine reactions. Since my current big issue the doc wants to work on first is my sinuses, should I also cut foods that may trip a histamine response? Those that are on the ‘to be enjoyed’ list would include:

  • Bananas
  • Strawberries
  • Tomatoes
  • Sauerkraut
  • Spinach
  • Eggplant
  • Vinegar
  • Canned fish

And then there are two other classes of foods that may cause issue: oxalates and salicylates – and those groups would whittle down my pool even further – lots of berries and some of my favorite greens are on that list, along with almonds – citrus is also on one of those lists. Let’s hope I don’t have to go that bugnutty. It is summer after all, and my body craves fruit + shellfish (R.I.P. shellfish) + avocado when it gets hot.

Since inflammation is an issue in my body, these are some suggested foods to help with that:

  • Omega 3s from fatty (wild caught) fish and grass-fed lamb (I don’t think this exists in Qatar), almonds, walnuts, flax seeds
  • Dark leafies (kale – which is exorbitantly expensive here), cruciferous veggies (my favorite – but they’ve been killing my stomach lately and where the actual trigger to make me finally go see someone and talk about this drama)
  • Red & blue veggies
  • EVOO and olives
  • Moist heat cooking under low temps (like crock pot cooking)
  • Spices like turmeric, ginger, oregano, garlic, rosemary, cayenne, cloves and cinnamon

It looks like I’ll be eating things from different food groups than I was when I was eating Paleo (which is the last time, consequently, that I felt I had a good handle on my digestive issues) – I’ll be incorporating things like oats, quinoa and rice into my diet – but most of the rest of this is familiar territory.

What’s going to be hard is the no caffeine – while I’m not physically addicted to it and don’t get the great energy boost other people enjoy, I am definitely psychologically addicted – I need a nice warm mug of something in the morning – and socially addicted, since most of my outings these days revolve around morning meals. Eggs are also going to be difficult. And where I live in general is going to be throwing me curveballs – I can’t get my compliant ingredients in any sort of quick timeline here. My Paleo faves – coconut aminos, collagen peptides & Red Boat fish sauce all take a few weeks to arrive from Amazon; juuuuuust in time for the protocol to be (mostly) over. So, most Asian food is out unless I want to go for sushi only – and with no soy sauce. (which is actually only kind of a pain in the ass: I can eat rice! but not anything else on the menu …)

Things to also take into consideration: drinking enough water (the protocol suggests 6-8 230ml glasses (which is about a cup or 8 ounces per serving – so the same as the generally-held standard for the US even though this business is in metric), eating enough food (since this is not a calorie-restrictive diet), not going too HAM at the gym (because the body may super not want to play along here – the doctor may or may not limit ones’ exercise while on this protocol – I think I’ll be fine, since I currently only do yoga 2 – 3x a week + try to walk a 5k a time or two on top of that).

Other than that, I think I’ve got a handle on this thing – I found some sample recipes online I’ll be starting with, and have made myself a big master spreadsheet for meal planning (I’m going to still at least keep an eye on hitting the non-paleo macros I just set for myself, but I’m not going to get too crazy about it – especially on Week 1). If you want me to drop my spreadsheet, let me know – I’m happy to share.

Week 1 Meals

Breakfasts

  • Pumpkin Oatmeal Pancakes
  • Overnight Oats (made with water instead of almond milk)

Lunches / Dinners

  • Baked Chicken with Cabbage
  • Coconut Chicken with Cilantro Lime Cauliflower Rice
  • Quinoa Salad with Chicken, Grapes & Almonds
  • Walnut-crusted Fish with Cilantro Lime Cauliflower Rice & Spinach

Snacks

  • Fresh Berries with Coconut Mango Ice Cream
  • Roasted Beet Hummus with Savory Seed Crackers

Beverages

  • Sparkling water with a squeeze of citrus at night
  • Hot herbal tea in the morning
  • Hot herbal tea while out with friends
  • Sparkling water while out with friends

Emergency ‘I’m In A Social Situation And Don’t Want To Bounce To Go Eat At Home All Sad And Alone’ Food

  • Order the fruit plate for breakfast
  • Order a salad with no cheese; oil & vinegar dressing
  • Go for sushi and have rolls with no soy sauce
  • Return to traveling with ‘purse nuts’
  • Make sure to also have ‘purse tea’
  • Grab some rice cakes at the grocery – if by some miracle they have squeezy almond butter, grab that too
  • Consider traveling with a bigger bag 😉

March 13, 2019

Almost tried to catch a shot of the big blue & yellow angel fish shaped guy I was watching cruise barnacles, but the angles and distance weren’t quite there. He was cool, though. But – so was this view.

I think the weather here has turned a corner – it was only 79f, but man did that couple degrees of heat zap my energy today. Booo, summer coming. Let’s see if we can make it to Ramadan before the outside gets miserable to be in.

Croatia – July 2018 – Zadar & Home

It’s finally the end of my Croatia vacation spam! If you’ve been tuning in all along, thanks for indulging me! It was great to get back out in the world, with DH and a camera in my hands. Three, if you count his camera + my phone. That’s a lot of snapping away.

After our day island hopping around the Adriatic, we had originally planned on heading to Dubrovnik – but were warned in multiple towns and the entire Internet that it would be crowded and may not be the most fun ever time to visit.

Loving the relaxed time we were having, we decided to scrap that leg of the trip – come back and cover it during shoulder season – and opt for a leisurely stroll back up the coast to Zagreb and home.

Lucky us, I had a backup plan – Zadar.

Zadar isn’t large by any means, and we felt like we did it justice in the day and a half we spent. You’d think that all the little seaside towns would look generally the same – and you’d be a quarter right; they have similar architecture – but the sea is really what got me as looking different. The color here was deeper, the boats were bigger, and the vistas were wider.

Super cool stuff.

The drive wasn’t shabby, either (an understatement).

… and that was our trip to Croatia. We absolutely loved it here – the food was fantastic, the sights were breathtaking, the people were friendly, and we can’t wait to go back (next trip: Pula, Omis & Dubrovnik).

Zagreb

Plitvice

Split

Island Hopping

Did we miss your favorite spot? Let me know in the comments below!

Croatia – July 2018 – Island Hopping

This day was one of the highlights of the trip. If you are planning on island hopping while in Croatia, and I highly suggest you do – you are missing out otherwise, I suggest going with one of the package tours.

The one we chose (Mayer Tours) was an 11-hour 5-island tour and came recommended on Pinterest somewhere. These guys were good – we did not get to visit the main attraction of the area – the Blue Cave – due to large swells closing the cave off for a few days, but that was okay. From what we’ve heard, all the boats that want to visit wait in line for up to 2 hours for a time slot, then offload passengers into an even smaller boat 10 at a time for a 15-minute tour of the cave.

I’m cool with not having waited for 2 hours to get in.

Our original plan scrapped, the days’ plans shifted continually, and I’m not 100% sure where all we went. I know we saw Korcula, Brac, Vis, a couple sandy beaches, Hvar, submarine tunnels, and military lookout points. Not sure what all else – but, as with any tour you pick or way you choose to see the islands, it was all freaking stunning. The water is crystal clear, oddly less salty than the Atlantic (at least to an East Coast of the US girl), and all the little towns and beaches are beautiful for some reason or another.

Super cool day, despite being on the back of a fast rib boat in the wind and noise and sea spray for most of it. (I hate wind and being wet and cold – so that’s saying something if I was still happy for an 11-hour day).

Pics!

And more – because restraint is not my middle name.

And that’s it for our island hopping day.

Can’t recommend highly enough.

Zagreb

Plitvice

Split

Onwards to the last destination!

Croatia – July 2018 – Split & Roman Ruins

Our next main destination on this vacation was Split – a large coastal town known for its Roman ruins, beautiful waterfront, and proximity to a bunch of smaller islands. Split did not disappoint. The town itself is sprawling – encompassing not only the waterfront, but a large inland area as well – complete with multiple suburbs.

We stayed outside the city center, in an area that I’m sure was gut renovated post-war (there was an old gun turret at the end of our block that for some reason I completely forgot to take a picture of).

The place we stayed was good – on a nice quiet stretch of waterfront walkway (quiet enough that we didn’t hear the revelers when Croatia won the semi-finals of the World Cup).

Our main destination in Split was Diocletian’s Palace – right at the City Center waterfront. For my history nerds, this palace was built around the beginning of the 4th century BC as a Roman emperor retirement home. For my Game of Thrones nerds, the basement was used as the underground passages in Mereen.

The palace itself is interesting – not much remains of it but some outer walls and continuing excavation into its basement – which was laid out to mirror the upper floors. Some interesting rooms to explore down there, and good signage on history (thankfully history signage instead of television signage).

Nowadays, the upper street is a twisting warren of alleyways packed to the brim with shops, restaurants, religious houses, guest houses and apartments – good luck finding an address quickly.

Note: this is the first place we ran into where you have to pay to use the public restrooms – at a cost of 5 kuna.

After spending half the day wandering the alleyways of the palace, we hadn’t gotten our full Roman ruin fix, so we jetted out 5km or so to the suburbs and the ruins of Salona. This was a couple-hour jaunt in the direct sun, with of course not enough sunblock or water or hats or anything that would make the trip more comfortable. That would be silly – and waaaay too responsible. So we explored. And me in flip flops. Also had a mini version of one of our infamous death hikes through an olive grove looking for a more direct route back through the neighborhood we passed through (how weird would that be?!).

After our trek, we burger & beered and passed out early to prep for a day of island hopping.

Part 1 – Zagreb

Part 2 – Plitvice

Croatia – July 2018 – Plitvice Lakes

Today’s adventure took us from Zagreb to Split, with a few-hour detour in Plitvice Lakes for some light hiking and waterfall viewing.

The drive was really cool and I’m glad we rented a car instead of trying to take public transportation (which would have also been easy) or going with an organized tour bus (which sounds like hell).

The Croatian countryside is nuts – you’ve got everything from rolling hills and corn fields that reminds me of Ohio, to craggy mountains that look almost like the moon if not for the crazy little scrub trees (maybe cedar?) clinging on for dear life, to the clearest bluest water you’ve ever seen, to lush vineyards and olive orchards(?). The scenery truly runs the gamut.

If you ever have the chance to come to this part of the world, rent a car and take the old highways. You’ll see more in the next travel day post, but daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn it’s pretty. All of it.

Today’s travel was mostly on the luxurious new highway – but it’s not always clear when you’re on that (the old highway is freaking nice as well), and it’s pretty too – just with more overtly convenient to an American potty options.

Plitvice 

This is one of those must-see spots in Croatia, and there’s hot debate as to which National Park is better – Plitivce or Krka. Krka you can swim in, but I’d heard the waterfall viewing was even better in Plitvice – and we were driving right past it (turns out we drove past both).

So, Plitvice it was.

We sailed past Entrance 1 and my pre-planned route, and ended up at Entrance 2. Which turned out really cool because we got to take a short boat ride + a longer tram/bus thing ride at the end that looped us almost right back to the parking lot.

Pro tip: when you enter the park, there will more than likely be a hella long line of people waiting to get in. Don’t be one of those people – either hop out of that line and find the money changing/ticket counter, or – better yet – pay at the trailheads further on down. Much shorter line. Like an hour shorter.

On to the pretty:

A second perspective: the landscape photographer in his element, but tortured by people and a lack of tripod.

And that was Plitvice. We could have spent hours more there happily (especially in a lower season that wasn’t so crowded), but this trip gave us a feel for what we would like to come back to see – definitely low season, and a longer hike. This was a great starting point trek and there were spots when the crowds thinned a bit, so we could take more time in (moderate) silence to shoot what we wanted to shoot without getting jostled on the wooden walkways or crowded around if it was a particularly Insta-friendly vista.

Split took another hour or two to get to, and then we were rewarded with this seafront:

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Croatia Part 1 – Zagreb

Stay tuned for our exploration of Split + then some!

Croatia – July 2018 – Zagreb

Part One – Zagreb

This trip was different. DH and I both needed an escape from the “sandpit” (if you don’t know, we live in Doha, Qatar), and it’s oppressive over 100 degree (F) temperatures with random days of high humidity and/or sandy crunchy air thrown in for good measure, hectic work schedule (for him), and the overwhelming beige-ness that living in a desert brings. We wanted to visit somewhere that had a bit of city, a bit of (some form of) democracy, some pretty water, and some hiking amongst greenery.

Europe it was – despite July being peak season.

So, we packed off to Croatia for a week knowing absolutely zero about it. For me, I knew nothing other than Pinterest said it was pretty, the Dalmatian Coast is known for seafood, and it’s close to Greece. DH has been really busy with work lately and flew in blind. We both *thought* it was part of former Yugoslavia but didn’t *quite* know if our world history was correct – spoiler: it is, go public school.

I also purposely failed in planning this vacation aside from picking towns and procuring most of our accommodation, hence the different-ness of this vacation from all others where I’ve got the fun scheduled in.

I read a crap-ton of blogs, came up with bullet points for each town + a couple restaurant and cafe options for each + an alternate plan for each area, and let the winds take us where they may (in a structured guidepath).

And you know what?

I didn’t die.

I didn’t hyperventilate about not being able to see everything X city could possibly have to offer while DH throws a hissy about being pressured to see too much once. This has happened – most notably, when my A list plan for Scotland got changed and we didn’t get to see Skye (which I’m still unhappy about, even though we had a great time poking around Loch Ness).

I was fine.

And we did most things on the list, I think. Could have dealt with a bit more history and culture lesson, but that’s what the internet is for.

We stayed busy while shuttling off to bed at 8 or 9 each night. And we ate fantastic food, drank some killer local beer – and found some really neat spots along the way, with enough time spent in traffic one afternoon that we got to learn a little about the history of the place whose sheer abundance of beauty we’d been goggling at all week. Go, us! We weren’t rushed, we I didn’t over-plan, we weren’t stuffing food in our faces to eatitall, and although DH still needed a vacation from his vacation, we had a relaxed but still physically demanding (from walking) time.

Success!

On to the pics!

Zagreb

Zagreb is the capital of Croatia, and one of those really cool old European cities. You can see in spots it’s former communist past, but more than that – the buildings are beautiful, the streets are bustling, and the arts scene is vibrant. The food is also delicious, as it was absolutely everywhere we went while in Croatia – even the touristy areas.

 

Just a small selection of the great stuff we ate:

Most was definitely not paleo ;x.

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DH appreciating his beer while being a goof ❤

The plan for exploring Zagreb was loose. Walk around, see some shit, hit a market or two, make sure to make it to old town. Eat food. Drink beer.

Luckily, that’s easy to accomplish here – the streets are all pretty, the city is safe, and Google Maps works great everywhere.

This is what happens when you have two photographers in the family:

They capture different and sometimes better angles on the things you see. Which is perhaps the best part about having a dual-camera family.

Our home away from home in Zagreb, Lobagola B&B:

Lobagola was our favorite place we stayed during this trip. It’s clear that travel is important to the owners and they really know what amenities are appreciated while on the road. That, comboed with really cool art taste + a killer local guide/art history lesson, really comfy beds, and a focus on local and fresh foods for breakfast and you’ve got a great base from which to explore.

And that was Zagreb Pass 1 – we briefly visited Zagreb at the tail end of our trip, and stayed in a (slightly) different part of town – you’ll see a few more shots at the end of this trip.

 

Stay tuned for the next leg of our Croatia journey!

 

Cochin, Kerala, India

I was recently lucky enough to share a visa hop date with a girlfriend of mine here in Doha – who was ready for an adventure – and who also wanted to explore India. This was the first trip either of us had taken to the subcontinent, and the first trip we’d taken together – so we decided to opt for a 5-day “India light” trip by visiting Kochi/Cochin (spelling depends on who you ask) in the Southwestern state of Kerala.

Kerala is on the Malabar Coast, and is tropical with tons of shoreline on the Arabian Sea. This state is known for palm trees, backwaters, tea and coffee plantations, and lush wildlife. According to Wiki, the official language is Malayalam, the population is 34.8 million, and the average life expectancy is the highest in India at 74.9. Which is super interesting – while there, she and I marveled at just how many old people were wandering around in such great shape.

This area is also really culturally diverse, with Hinduism, Islam and Christianity as the largest religions and a blend of Aryan (South Asian), Dravidian (South Indian), Arab and European cultures. We saw quite a few religions represented during a whirlwind town tour – most notably Jewish, Catholic, Hindu, Jain, Krishna and Islam.

Cochin is a large port city, with a metropolitan population of 2.1 million. Called Queen of the Arabian Sea, this town was an important spice trading center from the 14th century on and has maintained close trade ties with the Arab world. It was the first Portuguese colony in India, and was ruled by the Dutch, British and Kingdom of Cochin. Nowadays, Cochin is the financial, commercial and industrial capital of Kerala, as well as home to the Indian Navy’s Southern Naval Command and state HQ of the Indian Coast Guard. Cochin/Kochi is a top tourist destination, and at least according to Wiki’s sources, by 2025 will be one of the global cities contributing 50% of the world GDP. Wiki How cool is that?!

Ok, enough nerding out and on to the pictures!

I’ve also posted four vlogs on the trip – 1, 2, 3, 4 – if you’re curious to see a bunch of video of tuk-tuk rides, backwater cruises, and amazing traditional dancers.

Before I even jump into the trip, let me just say that it started out with quite the bang. My girlfriend, Amanda, and I were given an unexpected upgrade to business on our Qatar Airways flight and we were giddy with excitement.

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Thanks, Qatar Airways – what a way to start an adventure!

On to Kochi.

Around Fort Cochin

We stayed in a guest house in the Fort Cochin area of Kochi called Greenwoods-Bethlehem run by a really sweet couple – Sheeba and Ashley. We chose this location because of the tours and amenities available (daily yoga, ayurvedic massage and cooking classes specifically), the fact that it had Wifi and air conditioning, and the reviews on Trip Advisor and Booking.com. We were led to believe that the couple really takes care of their guests – and the reviews were not wrong in the slightest. Both were really sweet, and Sheeba knew exactly what a couple of girlfriends wanted out of a vacation – her suggestions were always spot on! Plus: the breakfasts each morning were fantastic, and the tea in the evening was just the thing to help relax after a day of sightseeing. I would definitely recommend and would stay there again.

 

The neighborhood Greenwoods is located in is also prime, and most things we wanted to do or see were within walking distance (of course, it was hot and tuk-tuks are cheap (around 20 or 30 rupees or under 50 cents) and really persistent – so we ended up hitching a ride to most locations).

 

 

Most evenings, we found ourselves at one of the local + tourist hangouts – the area near Fort Cochin beach and Princess Street shopping district. This area was great – you’ve got the ferry terminal nearby, scenic Chinese fishing nets, a bunch of restaurants and cafes, a really cool kids park, and beachfront hawkers selling their wares.

 

We ate dinner in this area every evening but the last, and most of what we had was fantastic. My first meal in India was Chicken 65, a dish I’d just heard about on Ugly Delicious a food nerd show I was loving on Netflix (if you’re at all into food and culture – give it a watch – the episode examining fried chicken on a global scale was at once frustrating and fascinating and this show’s examination of the concept of authenticity is something that really got my brain going). But I digress (obvs. have we met?).

 

Backwaters Tour

 

 

We did a day drip excursion (set up by our lovely hosts at Greenwoods) to the Kerala Backwaters.

The Backwaters is a popular day trip from Cochin – they’re a chain of lagoons and lakes linked by natural and man-made canals that is fed by 38 rivers and encompasses about half the length of the state of Kerala. According to Wiki, a comparison can be made with the American Bayou – which I can kind of see. The parts we saw at least were less “pointy teeth monster infested swampland” and more “serene to the point of coma because you probably won’t be eaten”, but I can see the resemblance in the lushness of the surroundings and the mixture of salty and fresh waters. We saw part of the Valapattanam river (the Northernmost), a canal, then I believe Vembanad Lake – which is the largest in the area.

Our ride was one of the 2,000 kettuvallams (houseboats), which is a human-powered thatched roof wooden hull boat with a really shallow draft, and was traditionally used as a grain barge.

Tours exist that can take you out on a more extensive ride (overnight), but the trip we took was a day excursion – and, to be honest, was a couple hours too long for either of our tastes. It was definitely a relaxing journey, and with a different mix of fellow travelers (we had a raucous group of post-grads on holiday from other parts of India or abroad who stuck to themselves – only so loudly one couldn’t really talk over them), and a more engaging tour guide – we would have been sad to see the boat go. As it was, we were excited to get back on the road (and our pimp ride!) to start the couple-hour journey back home.

Around Town

Most of the rest of our visit was taken up by shopping, morning yoga, ayurvedic massages, and tuk-tuk rides around town.

 

Jew Town and Spice Market 

Jew town? Yep, that’s what it’s called – this area still boasts a Synagogue and lots of beautiful lace shops. The Spice Market was also pretty cool – it was Portuguese, then Dutch, then English, then Indian. Super cool, and has been turned into a womens’ collective / popular Tuk Tuk driver stop.

A note on that: In this part of the world (and I’m suspecting all of Southeast Asia), it is common for tuk tuk drivers to make extra stops when ferrying around tourists. You don’t have to buy anything at the markets/museums/shops they bring you to – and as long as you at least go in and have a look, the driver will get something in return (usually something like a kilo of rice, a beer, a snack, etc.). It’s not hurting you any – it takes 5 minutes to as long as you want it to (in Sri Lanka, our driver took us to cool workshops where we spent quite some time chatting with artisans and actually had to be collected by said driver or we’d be there happily all afternoon), and it helps the local economy. Plus: you’re spending next to nothing in your own currency for a ride; in my view, yes dude – make some extra cash. /end rant but really I could go on and on about the gig economy, tourism, and the like but will spare you – suffice it to say, I’m super happy to go along with the flow while on vacation, and if it’s a good driver (and not a pushy jerk), I will help them out as much as time allows. It makes my experience richer, and it’s a barely any effort way to directly impact someone’s family. Our Barbie Girl driver you’ll read about in a bit? He’s 1 month older than me, looked about a decade older, and has 3 kids. /end rant for real.

 

 

Tuk Tuk Tour

Our last day, we took a massive tour around the area to see all the highlight touristy sights – we hired a tuk-tuk driver who took us on a 2-hour tour around town for about $2 while loudly and enthusiastically singing “Barbie Girl” and “Who Let The Dogs Out?” and ended up adding an additional trip across the bridge to the Kerala Folklore museum for another $2 or so. I loved the whirlwind tour and was completely happy to see what people commonly visit while in town. Tuk Tuk drives around town were probably my favorite part of the whole trip – watching the world and normal life stream past from a bouncy, loud ride with the breeze in my hair was a great way to experience the area.

Museums

 

Churches and Temples

 

Some random pics I swiped from my girlfriend

 

 

Kathakali Dancers

The last thing we had time for on our journey was a Kathakali Dance. Man, I’m glad we made time for this – it was certainly one of the highlights of the trip.

Kathakali (Wiki) is one of the major forms of traditional Indian dance and is indigenous to Kerala. Not unlike Japanese Kabuki theater, this style of storytelling includes beautiful costuming, face painting, no spoken dialogue, and an all-male cast. Dancers spend 6 years(!) learning their craft, and it really shows. What they can do with their eyes and convey with their faces and subtle body language is stunning. This was one of the highlights of the trip for me, and I’d go back for another viewing in a heartbeat. If you want to see more, check out the fourth and final Cochin Vlog on my YouTube channel. Super cool.

 

And that was our 5-day girlfriend visa hop trip. Simply put, Kerala was fantastic and somewhere I’d visit repeatedly. I can’t wait to see more of this vibrant and diverse land!